PFAS Fabric Suppliers: I Asked for Proof—Here’s What Happened
As a Design House owner working in costume and fashion design development, I’ve started asking a question that most of the industry hasn’t caught up to yet:
"Are the fabrics I’m sourcing from you PFAS compliant?"
With PFAS regulations now in effect in New York and California, this isn’t theoretical anymore. It directly impacts what fabrics, notions and materials can be used in garments, productions, and consumer products.
So I decided to ask.
Not one supplier—multiple.
It's worth mentioning neither the New York nor the Los Angeles Garment Districts have published any lists of PFAS compliant suppliers to date, according to my research.
The Question
I reached out to two fabric suppliers I’ve been using for several years and asked a straightforward question:
"Are your fabrics PFAS-free or compliant?"
What I was looking for was simple:
Test results
Certificates of compliance
Chemical disclosures
Something verifiable.
Supplier Response #1
I was told:
“All of our fabrics are PFAS-free. We do not have any certification.”
I followed up to ask how that claim was being substantiated—whether there had been any testing they could share, or if documentation existed upstream in their supply chain.
I sent him a link to my PFAS Library at https://moderngarmentdist.gumroad.com and could tell whether or not he downloaded any of the PFAS compliance documents in the link.
He did not.
His final response was:
“We recommend you order a sample or a 1-yard piece and test it on your own.” - In writing. By email.
It's worth noting this came from a well known fabric supplier located in NY, where PFAS Regulations are ACTIVE and where PFAS compliance violations can result in a $10k fine per incident.
Supplier Response #2
The response took a different form.
I asked in a chat window on their website, if their fabrics were PFAS Free or Compliant. Instead of a direct answer, I told by an ai chatbot:
"Our fabrics are produced at mills committed to social responsibility and sustainability. We provide organic and recycled options and all products meet strict health and safety standards, including being free from harmful chemicals."
then it posted a web link in the chat to a generalized statement about greenwashed product safety and material standards—reassuring in tone, but none specific to PFAS testing, compliance thresholds, or verifiable documentation.
No test data.
No certification.
No clear confirmation tied to the actual products being sold.
I followed up with an email to the company and am still waiting for a reply. I will post here later if there are any updates.
This well known custom fabric and wallpaper printing company is located in NC, where there currently are no PFAS regulations.
The question is, are THEY shipping any PFAS banned fabrics to NY or CA where PFAS compliance violations can result in a $10k fine per incident?
What These Responses Have in Common
Across both suppliers, the pattern was consistent:
Broad “PFAS-free” or safety-based "greenwashing" claims.... (learn that word and what it means = )
No supporting documentation
No testing data provided
No disclosure of chemical treatments or finishes
No supply chain transparency
In both cases, the information needed to verify compliance simply wasn’t there.
In one case, the NY company could be fined $10k for every fabric PFAS banned order of fabric or thread they process.
Why This Matters
PFAS compliance is not determined by fiber content alone.
A fabric can be:
100% polyester
or a polyester/viscose blend
…and still contain PFAS depending on how it was processed, finished, or treated during manufacturing.
Without documentation, there is no way to verify.
The Shift That’s Happening
We are entering a PFAS regulated environment.
But the supply chain hasn’t adapted.
And that creates a gap between:
👉 what is being claimed👉 what can actually be proven
Where This Leaves Designers
If you are:
building garments
producing costumes
developing collections
You are now in a position where:
You are expected to make compliant material choices
But are not consistently given the documentation required to verify them
In one case, the responsibility was even shifted downstream:
“Test it yourself.”
What I’m Considering
I currently have physical samples of the fabrics in question.
I’m considering sending them out for independent PFAS testing—not as a substitute for supplier responsibility, but as a way to document what this gap looks like in practice.
If I do, I’ll be sharing:
What testing actually involves
What it costs
What results can and cannot tell you
Why testing alone doesn’t solve the compliance issue
Do I report the NY supplier? What I currently have in writing is enough to warrant an investigation based on the fabric and thread contents they have listed on their website which haven't been properly certified by their own admission.
What I Did
I created a PFAS Material Traceability & Disclosure Report, which I will be adding to my PFAS Compliance Library:https://moderngarmentdist.gumroad.com
This document outlines every component used in each design I develop for a client—including fabrics, thread, trims, elastics, and all other notions that may be subject to PFAS compliance considerations. This is a process similar to what I was already doing for fashion designers so they could easily calculate the cost of materials for their designs.
In this version, each fabric or material is documented with:
Supplier information
Fiber content (as listed)
Any available claims or disclosures
Verification efforts and supplier responses
Compliance status based on available information
It also includes a dedicated section for client-provided materials, ensuring that material sourcing responsibility is clearly documented and separated.
Why This Matters
Right now, most materials in the fashion and costume supply chain are sold without verifiable PFAS documentation.
That means:
Designers are expected to make compliant choices
Without being given the information required to verify them
This document doesn’t solve that problem.
But it does create a transparent record of what was known, what was not, and what actions were taken.
A Practical Boundary
If you want to reduce risk as a design developer or production house, one approach is to require clients to provide their own materials—including fabrics and notions—so that sourcing responsibility remains with the client.
However, even in those cases, documentation and disclosure is still critical.
Important Reality
This report does not guarantee compliance.
It documents the reality of the current supply chain.
If materials are used in jurisdictions where PFAS restrictions apply (such as New York or California), compliance expectations are tied to those locations—regardless of where the design or production work took place.
That means:
If a product is produced using materials that cannot be verified and is later distributed, sold, or used in a regulated market, there may still be regulatory exposure.
Final Thought
This isn’t about calling out individual suppliers.
It’s about documenting where the supply chain currently stands.
Because right now, designers are being asked to operate inside a compliance framework…
without a fully compliant sourcing system.
Resource
If you’re working in fashion, costume, or textile sourcing and trying to understand PFAS compliance, I’ve compiled a working resource outlining current standards, definitions, and sourcing considerations:
Gina Vincenza Van Epps is a PFAS-compliant design development specialist focused on bridging the gap between fashion production and emerging chemical regulations. Through her work with the Modern Garment District and the PFAS Compliance Library, she is documenting real-time supply chain challenges and building solutions for designers navigating a rapidly changing industry.
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